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This was my dream before it turned to reality few days back. Ever since I heard about this trail like sixteen months ago, I dreamed of going there.
April 1st 2016,
The day, we begin this journey. There were other two friends who accompanied me for this trek. We planned to do this trek from around 2-3 months before but there was not much of preparations for this. We didn’t care much about the shoe at that time.
We went on a microbus from Kathmandu to Besisahar on the first day. It was a journey of around six hours, just bit late than the normal scheduled time. We took a shower and went for a little shopping. We hadn’t bought caps, globes, medicines and other few accessories so we bought all these there in the evening. While buying all these stuffs we were asking to the locals about the weather and all other queries we had. We did get the answers to our questions but they were not everything we wanted hear at that moment.
We had mo:mos for our afternoon breakfast and then ‘dal-baat’ (that’s what these foreigners asked me like, did you have your dal-baat? in the hotel) with chicken curry. I didn’t remember the name of that restaurant but the curry and the food was very deicious, especially that chicken curry was excellent. We got back to our hotel and then after a while my two other friends started talking about the next day and they were nervous about it. All those negative thoughts were there in their mind. I didn’t care much and I didn’t actually pay attention to what they were saying about it. Sometimes they used to say, about the weather being not good and then chances of snowfall, altitude and all other stuffs.
April 2,2016,
Everything was all good in the morning. We took a jeep to Manang. Normally, trekkers don’t do this. If I have to recommend, its better to start trekking from Besisahar especially if you are a foreigner because that will allow you to get used to with the climate and you can also see the places and know about the locals around while trekking.
Nepal is a mountainous country and to see all those hills, mountains from a distance was not new to me. Previously, we did plan to go to Chame by Jeep but later we took a decision to make it up to Manang. As you leave the Lamgung district, you start to see the beauty of this incredible district, Manang. Its like nature at very best. We saw the lakes, mountains, these amazing local people. I liked the accent of them as well though we speak the same language, Nepali.
As we were traveling through Jeep in a graveled road, I managed to took a nap few times. We were following Marsangdhi river right from the Besisahar. There were villages on the bank of the river and that was something, I found so beautiful.
We had our lunch around 11 AM near Syange. Our next stop was Chame where we stopped for the tea. We did stop after Chame for several times to see the beauty and take some pictures. We safely got to Manang. There are beautiful landscapes, lakes and villages on the way to Manang . We reached around six in the evening and it took around thirty minutes to find a hotel. Few hotels were already occupied. We stayed in Gangapurna Hotel named after the Lake Gangapurna which is situated just 10 minutes walk from the hotel. We had vegetable soup with noodles and typical daal bhat again for the dinner. From Manang we started to feel the cost of everything will a bit expensive but the good thing about the hotels over there is they don’t take the charge of the stay. This facility was everywhere through out the trek.
The map of Annapurna region.
The small hotel where we stopped for our lunch on day 2.
April 3rd, 2016
We woke up early that day. We could see the beautiful mountains right from our window. Then we went for a breakfast in the dinning hall. Then after a while, we went to HRA office for a normal counseling about the route and the trek we were about to began that day. We had planned to go Shir-Kharka, way to Tilicho lake but the counseling we got there made us stay in Manang for one more day for acclimatization. The day before one of my friend was feeling dizzy. He took a medicine named Diamox of 250mg before going to bed as recommended by this brother for altitude sickness. He took is as a precaution. Its must to drink a lot of water after taking Diamox cause its working mechanism is based on the frequent urination. I don’t know how it operates but that was what we were told by the HRA doctor.
After having lunch, my friends wanted to have a nap so they stayed in the hotel but I wanted to see the place around, chat with locals. With that purpose, I went to see around for like an hour or so. I saw the monastery, local villages and their life style.
Even that day we did little shopping like trekking sticks, water bottle that keeps water warm and other few materials.
By the mid-day my friends were almost negative about the next day trip to Sir-kharka. One of my friend told me he doesn’t feel comfortable about the trek after Shir kharka to Tilicho Base Camp. The route from Shirkharka to Tilicho Base Camp is slightly dangerous but no casualties have occurred there. The next friend also told me the same thing about his intention regarding next day trek. I was focused on my agenda and I thought of doing it alone but no network connection and not a single person to go that way the next day was known to me though I did asked few people about it. I changed my mind of not going to Tilicho the next morning , this was frustrating but it didn’t feel bad for hours.
April 4th ,2016
We had our breakfast early and was about to began the trek. We took the picture in-front of the hotel where we stayed. We were just about to begin the white girl called, her name is Celia and she turned into my travel buddy and a very good friend later. We were called to register our name in the ACAP centre. We all wrote our names and slowly started our trek.
Just after walking for few minutes I was already ahead of my friends, I couldn’t adjust to their pace and neither they were able to adjust with mine so I kept walking and frequently waited to see them.
I met the same Spanish girl, I greeted her Hello then slowly we begin our conversation. It was me trying to know more at that period. Just after few minutes of initial conversation we got along well. We started walking together. Then she started telling about her and so did I. We crossed the bridge of Gungsang and my two other friends were still near me. I took few minutes to rest and Celia continue walking. My friend took a picture of me on the bridge. Then I told them I will continue walking slowly. It was around 2PM that day. I could see Celia just few meters ahead of me and it didn’t took me to catch her up. It took us almost an hour to reach our stop for that day. I took a room of three bed for my two other friends and me in Gangapurna Hotel Of Yakkharka. After that I helped Celia to get her a room in the same hotel. The owner was not happy with me cause I made him give the same offer to Celia i.e. free room to stay as long as we are eating there.
After an hour or so, I was still looking for my friends way. During this period I got fresh and already had my ginger tea. Then after few minutes, a young man of around 30 asked who is Kshitiz? It wasn’t a problem to recognize me for him as my friends later told me that they had sent the message with a guy about their situation. Things didn’t go well for them as one of them had blood coming through his nose so they both decided to get back to Manang. Looking at their situation and their nervousness, it was fair for them to get back. I thank them for joining me from Kathmandu to Manang.
I was shocked to hear that. I was focused about my next day trip. That news did make me nervous for a while. The good part was I never questioned myself at that moment, I was determined to do it by myself. I talked about it to Celia and other local people. They were motivating me and looking at my state they were sure I will made it to the top. I have to be very thankful for my body for adjusting pretty well to the climate. After that news I was working to get away from all the negative thoughts and I was successful at it as well. I called to my parents and friends in Kathmandu. Still at the time I hadn’t told my parents about the altitude and what happened to my friends. If I had let them know about it, I am sure they wouldn’t allow me to do it all alone.
That day, I had my dinner early and went to bed early so that I could have proper rest. After a sound sleep that night I was prepared to do rest of trek all by myself.
The best part of Annapurna Circuit is not just the natural beauty it offers us but all those friendly local people and friendly fellow trekkers. Its so easy to start a conversation there, even I was able to do that. Everyone greets everybody on the way. Everybody stops to ask about each-other. Though the evening at Yak-kharka was not as expected but I tried to enjoy myself. I played cards for a while with the tourist guide and lot few bucks but I was happy with that.
April 5, 2016
Around 7 AM in the morning, there was a knock at my door from a familiar face. It was from one of the tourist guide with whom I played cards. He asked me to get ready as fast as possible. Without wasting any time, I freshen up and had my plain toast and ginger tea. He left just few minutes early. I started my trek around 7:30 AM in the morning. My trek to Thorang-Phedi from YakKharka , from the altitude of around 4150m to 4550m. I didn’t see any familiar face for an hour or so that day. I stopped to take few shot of the landscapes and continue to trek at a slow place so that there won’t be any difficulty regarding altitude and tiredness.
Around 11:30 AM, we arrived in Thorang Phedi, 4550m. I was feeling good with no symptoms of sickness at all. The sky was clear, sun was shining bright. I took a rest for a while and there pops up the owner of the hotel. I asked for the room, then he asked one of his staff to show me the room. The room was okay, with two beds but all the windows were locked in that hotel. It was not comfortable for me but just for a day, I managed without any problem. The appetite was much better than the other day. I had fried rice for my lunch and the ginger tea. Ginger tea and garlic was like life saving drug for me, I couldn’t stop myself having one.
Around 1 PM after changing my dress and having lunch, I decide to a trek for 30 minutes in the direction where we all be heading towards. It was wonderful feeling. I went around 100m up and stayed there for around 10 minutes watching the beauty of nature and other trekkers passing by me towards High Peak, altitude of 4850m.
I was recommended to stay in Thorang Phedi that day. The reason behind this was that its hard to have a sound sleep in High Peak due to the altitude and also the loss of appetite. The loss of appetite is normal in these high altitude.
As I got back from short sight-seeing trek to Hotel, there was Celia calling me. She asked me how was I feeling and all those stuff. We both planned to start trek together tomorrow around 4:30 AM in the morning. I was happy to see her again, my motivating factor. I thought she would be staying in YakKharka that day but she did it well to get to Thorang Phedi. She is a fighter, she used to tell me, she will do it but she doesn’t know how. She did find a way, didn’t she?
The evening at Thorang Phedi was most beautiful one for me. The dinning hall was good, food was good too. The exotic factor was the extent to which I was talking with all these people. We started by playing Cards for a while. Then two British lad named John and Andrew and their traveling buddy Mitchell asked to teach/play carrom board with them. Initially I was instructing John how to score one but it was hard time for me as well to score. I asked them few silly questions to them cause I was curious to know the answers. One of the those kind of questions was, why is Andrew surname as well as first name like Andrew Andrew? Hahah There was this guy named John he as such a cheerful person, he laughs every now and then, and I asked him, why you laugh so much? Hahahah I am such a weird person. Haha With no results after half an hour play, we decide to put an end to the game and we shook our hands showing some sportsman spirits haha Its was funny actually. Andrew started and we all followed. After the game, we had our dinner and Celia came up asking me about the details for tomorrow. I asked her to wake me up because due to low temperature its obvious that these today’s smart-phone battery won’t be able to stand that long in extreme cold. The night before, I had the same problem. She promised me to give a knock at my door if I didn’t make it myself.
April 6, 2016
Next day around 4 AM, I wake up. After getting all ready, I went to dining hall where there were other trekkers having their breakfast. I took plain toast and ginger tea, I didn’t change my breakfast during the whole trip though I did change my lunch and dinner. Celia came few minutes later. As soon as I finished my breakfast, We started our trek towards mighty Thorang-la. The excitement level of all those trekker was incredible. Everybody was pumped up. It was going to be the best adventurous day of my life and of few others as well. I hadn’t done anything incredible like this before.
We started at slow pace towards the top. The distance between Thorang Phedi and Thorang-la pass is just six kilometers. It was cold, winding was blowing hard and I didn’t have the lights. We did buy it but it was in my friend’s bag so it went with them. Celia walked ahead of me and I followed her. The problem was solved. The temperature was so low, it could make you warm hands cold within a second.
With the every step forward we were getting closer than before. Celia was feeling difficulty and I stayed there to look after here. Somehow we both managed to get to High Camp, 4850m. Celia went directly inside the restaurant to get her hands warm. She asked me to join. I stayed outside and waited for her. After few minutes, I saw a way to the top of the small hill that was closer to us. Just 5 minutes of walk. I wanted to see how beautiful it is from there. I put my bag, sticks behind and just took my camera and went to see the view. I came back from the top seeing an incredible view. I didn’t Celia, I lost her. Again after have a rest for a while, I started my trek from High Camp to mighty Thorang-la passé. Our path was narrower and steep. There were landslide areas as well. The few paths were covered with snow as well. I loved every single second of it. I was regularly taking water and breathing deep to avoid any breathing problem. After an hour of trek from High Camp I had already finished two bottles of water. Thankfully, tourist guide did give me to have some water everytime I asked them for it. I took several stop to rest during the trek. Just about 200m to Throng-la, I asked a tourist getting back from Thorang-la about the distance. When it said, it just few minutes away, I was so in cloud nine actually. It was happening. Each step forward from there I was getting closer and closer. I could see the mighty Thorang-la with my eyes. I am thankful for everything, weather, climate, people, prayers, god, everything for this. I asked a guy to take my picture there in Thorang-La passé. I thanked me and began to have small chat with him. He was tall with the same complexion like Nepalese people but when I asked him where is he from, he told me Vancouver, Canada. He did mention the reason of the complexion. His mother was from Phillippines and dad was from Canada.
Me myself at the top of Thorang-la passe. I never smile in front of camera and that day I couldn’t stop myself for smiling. Hahahah
There is a tea shop at the top as well. After having a couple of glasses of ginger tea, I decided to descend slowly. From there, it was 10KM trek to Muktinath, 3800m. Everything was beautiful there, everyone congratulating each other. I also saw few foreigners taking pictures with their flags. The best part of witnessing live snowfall for the first time in my life. There were tiny snow-flakes falling down.
Around 10 AM, I started my trek towards Muktinath. The path was so steep, I had to be very cautious and sticks were much of help. After more than a couple of hours, I saw a small village where there were hotels. I could see few familiar faces from meters away. Those were the tourist guides I talked before during my trek.As I arrived to the hotel, snow fall was getting stronger and I was loving it. I nthat cold weather, I had the chance to have mo:mos for the first time in seven days. I t was so delicious actually. I was eating, I heard a voice again, talking to me, it was Celia again. She had her breakfast and I had mine then slowly we both started our trek to Muktinath. As told Muktinath was just an hour away from us. We were already talking about hot showers, wi-fi and all cause we didn’t had so for around more than three days. I got network back on my phone. I informed my brother that I did the Thorang-la and was heading to Muktinath. Then for an hour or so my phone kept on ringing and I kept on answering. Celia, got used to with my la la la la. Everytimes my phone rings she used to tease me saying la la la hahah
After an hour we reached Muktinath. Celia and I almost lost the way. Those tourist guide were our savior. They had to yell from the other side of the river to tell us about the direction. We saw the Muktinath temple on our way to the Hotel. First we went to Bob Marley Hotel. I was upset when they told me there wasn’t any room available but they said they had a room to Celia. I did feel bad but it was okay. I asked Celia to stay there. I called a tourist guide who I met on Thorang Phedi. He arranged me the room in the same hotel where he and other tourist were staying. That evening Celia come to see her other friends she found during the trek. She was surprised to see me there. We talked about our plans. I told her I will be going back tomorrow to Kathmandu. With the promise to catch up in Kathmandu, she went to her hotel.
April 7, 2016
Next day, I went to Muktinath Temple early in the morning. I took some photographs and then I got back to my hotel to have my breakfast. I wanted to see Celia before leaving for Kathmandu. She didn’t have a number, so other than waiting for her to pop-up I had no option. She showed up after few minutes. We exchange our email id and facebook and then I had to leave. Honestly, I didn’t want to leave at all. I was in other world actually, place full of happiness and joy and nothing to worry about. I wished time to stop right there for me. It was quite emotional for me to get back. I didn’t expect this when I started. Thank you Annapurna Circuit for everything and thank you everyone and everything for showing how beautiful can traveling alone be. I loved every nano-second of it.
I cam on a jeep from Muktinath to Jomsom. On the way I got a chance to see Kagbeni village. While descending from altitude of 3800m we were following Gandaki river. I stayed in Jomsom for couple of hours. I took few pictures over there as well. around 11 AM, I left Jomsom for Kathmandu.
